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ALS, four pages on two adjoining sheets, 8.5 x 10.75, January 22, 1856. Handwritten letter to his friend and law partner Solomon G. Haven, written from Hotel de Lourdes in Rome, Italy, during his post-presidential travels abroad. Fillmore appraises President Franklin Pierce's government, discusses the numerous stops on his travel itinerary, and remarks on his audience with Pope Pius IX.
First, he weighs in on political matters at home: "We were all surprised this morning by reading in Galignani, that the President had sent his Annual Message to Congress without the House being organized. This certainly looks as though the government was about to fall to pieces. As though anarchy and discord reigned between the several departments. While I regret exceedingly that you have not been able to elect a speaker, I can not but approve of the independence of the House in refusing to permit such an untimely communication to be read. We know nothing here of the circumstances, as the American papers have not come to hand, and I fear will not…But all I can say is, stand by the country and the constitution. Preserve the Union, regardless of the mad denunciations of fanatics, or the reckless cry of demagogues, and you will be sure to have the approval of your own conscience now, and eventually the approbation of all honest and intelligent men; and no true statesman should seek for more."
He moves on to his busy travel schedule, writing: "We left Paris, Nov. 14th and arrived here on the 29th of Dec., stopping at Lyons, Avignon, Nimes, Arles, Marseilles, Nice, Genoa, Turin, Leghorn, Pisa, Florence, and Siena, long enough to see the objects of interest in each place, and performing the whole journey without accident or any material discomfort. We have now been here long enough to have become somewhat familiar with the topography of Rome, ancient and modern, and have seen the lions of the Eternal City, or at least as many of them as I shall be able to remember…I may remark that I am astonished at the number of Americans traveling in Europe. They swarm in every city. The English language is heard at every turn."
Finally, he discusses his meeting with the Pope: "As in duty bound I was presented to His Holiness the Pope. He granted me a private audience, but the day before I was to be presented I was told that the etiquette of the court required all who were presented to kneel and kiss the hand of the Pope, if not his foot. This took me by surprise and when Mr. Cass called to accompany me to the Vatican, I informed what I had heard, and said if this was the case I must decline the honor of a presentation. That I could only consent to be presented to the Pope, as the Sovereign of a State, not as high Priest of a religious sect or denomination. He assured me that I had been misinformed, and I consented to accompany him. I was accordingly presented. His Holiness received me sitting, not very graciously, neither offering hand or foot for salutation; and to my surprise, asked me to take a seat, and entered very finely & familiarly into conversation for some 10 or 15 minutes. He has a very benevolent face, and I doubt not is a very good man. From all I can learn here, he was really desirous of benefitting those whom he governs, and especially of ameliorating the condition of common people. But the system which he administers is so bad, and is entrenched so strongly in the political and ecclesiastical despotism of ages…that he found it impossible." In very good to fine condition, with light toning to the folds, and minor paper loss to the edges.
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